Windigo’s Ironwood to Marquette Adventure
along the North Country National Scenic Trail
Saturday September 18th, 2010 – 260 miles – 15 days
TRAIL DAY 0
The night before the hike, I walked to the downtown area looking for the North Country Trail. After asking two people and forty five minutes of roaming the streets and busy ATV trails on both sides of the boarder, I finally followed the lead of five deer that were headed across town. Honest ! They skirted an old warehouse, went up a wooded hill and past the ATV trail. On the other side of a small gully was a second, little used abandoned railroad grade. A short walk east led to the old wood railroad bridge crossing the Montreal River and the Michigan/Wisconsin boarder.
Traveling in the wilderness, days of the week and month no longer matter. The year does not exist. The only measure that counts are Trail Days.
TRAIL DAY 1
After an early start from the state boarder, a big country omelet at Ben’s was in order. Meeting a few of the good natured locals, I was told twice that I would be passing the “flying hill”… hmmmm. After a pleasant five miles departing from Ironwood and about four miles of road walk, the very impressive Copper Peak Ski Flying Hill first comes into view from eight miles away. There are only a dozen or so ski jumpers in North America that qualify to fly this hill.
Finally entering the forest along the Black River brings the start of the real “hikeable” trail. It is very exciting with the rush of water over one waterfall after another. Taking too many pictures was impossible. After a first long days hike, the first nights camp at Black River Harbor with a fantastic sunset over Lake Superior was a great reward.
TRAIL DAY 2 - 16 miles
Crossing the suspension bridge over the Black River Harbor gave a final look at Rainbow Falls before the trail ascended to high ground of pine and hardwood forest. Twenty minutes were spent trying to get a picture of the largest Pileated Woodpecker I’ve ever seen. Many small streams and a beaver pond are found along the way before the trail gives way to a wide swath through an area of forest harvesting.
Eventually heading northward into the Porcupine Mountains the trail follows high ground above the Presque Isle River. After four miles, it finally descended to the river so a water stop could be made. The flow of the river picks up quite quickly along here providing several rapids, a few quick drops and more waterfalls. I love waterfalls !
A great suspension bridge built by Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930′s takes the trail northeast just inside the woods along Lake Superior. With a light rain coming down, an unexpected, but very welcome camp site was found on the shoreline. Easing back into an armchair made from stone and eating dinner while looking out over Lake Superior, provided a relaxing end to another great day.
TRAIL DAY 3 - 23 miles
Leaving camp, I ran into my first fellow backpackers. Dave and Jenifer were very knowledgeable about the Porcupine Mountains and beyond and gave some good tips for the coming days. Dave eventually confessed to being a DNR officer for the park. He and his wife were spending a weeks vacation hiking the trails. How great it must be to actually want to vacation where you work!
The trail soon left the shoreline and followed a gentle ascent along the very scenic Little Carp River. After Greenstone Falls, the trail became a bit steeper for some time before coming out on the first of many distant views to be seen during this journey. A few stepping stone crossings, rapids, a couple of oddities and many great views made for a fun day.
TRAIL DAY 4 - 15 miles
Anxiously arriving at M-64, I was happy to find the supply drop that my ride Sam and I left hanging in a tree on the way to Ironwood. After loading up, I attached a note to the bucket asking “some good person to please take and reuse or recycle it. Reward within”. After returning home, I received an e-mail from Tim and his wife thanking me for the yogurt covered dried cherries and that the bucket was used to collect Lake Superior stones for their fish tank and was now in the recycle bin.
Next came the Trap Hills. That first, rather steep climb took forty five minutes. The hills to follow were as much a challenge, but all very well worth it. The scenic vistas were incredible and came on one after another. This trip was in late September, just in time for peak colors.
TRAIL DAY 5 - 15 miles
Up to this point a couple of planned water sources were no good due to the dry Summer. Having obtained two liters for a dry camp the night before, left me with only one liter to start out with. The next planned hole was also dry. Normally that might be OK, but the next two water sources on the map did not look promising either so a detour of two miles down Cty. Rd. 400 was the only sure thing. Setting off just fifty feet down the road, there was a little used side road…. with a big puddle ! I took a liter from it, but would not treat it until reaching those next two holes. Arriving at those sources over two hours later, one was found dry and the other really nasty, so yes ….I treated and drank the road puddle water. Wasn’t at all bad, either.
The rest of the morning brought on a variety of terrain with several streams and occasional views of the distant horizon. The clouds had increased through the day and around noon the sky was completely covered. Looking back to the west it was obvious that something was building up as the skies were turning much darker and lowering to cover the hill tops that I had just traversed.
The next couple miles of trail were rather hard going, following a narrow gorge along a creek with many downed trees …..and that is when the rains began. Seventeen hours straight of a steady hard rain! More than eight inches fell. Sleep came easy that night as the soon to come rivers, lakes and wetlands started to overflow.
TRAIL DAY 6 - 6 miles
Everything including my boots were soaked except for a lightweight set of long underwear and a pair of socks. It had also dropped to 34 degrees so it seemed safer to make a short day and try to dry things out at the up coming shelter.
This second rainy day turned into a fun one at Old Victoria Welcome Center. While drying out using an old wood cook stove, I enjoyed greeting visitors, splitting wood and tending fires in the old historic homes used for the tours. Many thanks to Lynette and Patty for their wonderful hospitality, good company and a great vegetarian pasty for dinner.
Historic Old Victoria, an old copper mining town, and the surrounding area were extremely interesting and worth spending an extra hour or two in any weather. Check them out on their Face Book Page – Old Victoria Restoration.
TRAIL DAY 7 - 28 miles
With the heavy rainfall, it would not be possible to make the two river fords planned for this day. Between the two high water routes, 5.2 miles were added to the journey.
The lands between and after these routes were typically wetlands. On this day, they were flooded wetlands. A friend suggested they then would simply be classified as swamp. I agree! Many unexpected challenges were faced. Creeks and rivers were forded that normally would have been jumped or crossed on stones. Boardwalks now under water could not be followed and left one surrounded by foot deep water. In one spot a small spring was bubbling up right in the middle of the trail. Dry land was seldom seen this day.
It did make for some great pics and ended on a high note with the meeting of trail mates Muir, Katelyn and Scuds. They were very welcome company while standing around their warm coal stoked fire built along an unused railroad.
TRAIL DAY 8 - 20 miles
A fairly early start led to an eerie layer of fog infused with fall colors surrounding the many beaver ponds and swamps along the way.
I ran into John Diebel and his two boxers out for a day hike. Nemo was especially “loving” and lots of fun after fording the Silver River I walked about a hundred yards only to strip down once more to ford the Silver River again!
Entering the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness brought much welcomed higher dry ground. It was so dry that there was a twelve mile stretch coming up before the next water supply and would require an overnight dry camp along the way. Treating just two litters of water might be stretching it a bit (hint), but I decided to go for it after “cameling” a half liter.
TRAIL DAY 9 - 19 miles
Waking with dry eyes (another hint), I continued on and came to a 1000 acre tract of forest that had burned two years prior. At the same moment the wind died down and all was still. It felt as though I was treading through a grave yard for the next hour or so.
Returning to the banks of the Sturgeon River, Tibbets Falls was not to be found. The river was still flowing with such fierce volume that the falls had turned into a class IV rapids, which was very exciting for this old white water kayaker. Northward from here, brought the introduction to a very friendly Spruce Grouse that must have been guarding a nest of young because he strutted his stuff back and forth across the trail within ten feet. These grouse are very rare, seldom seen and protected by state law. It was quite the treat.
Addressing those previous “hints” that I should have caught myself, I’ll be straight forward so others might learn from my mistake. As the day progressed, I also wondered why I needed to piss when the volume was so little ….duhhh! It was after 16 miles in that day, that the small amount of piss turned to a very dark brown. Dehydrated ! I thought I’d been drinking plenty of water at my normal one liter per six miles, but obviously, it was not enough. Minutes away from the next water source, I easily guzzled a liter of water, packed a second and slowly hiked another three miles. Feeling a bit light headed and knowing that one can go down rather suddenly under these circumstances, I was very fortunate to catch a ride the last four miles into Alberta, my planned stay for that night.
TRAIL DAY 10 - 6 miles
Alberta is the site of Michigan Techs. Ford Center, a remote campus for their Forestry Program and an old Ford Motor Company saw mill museum. Deciding to take a light day to recover a bit, I caught a ride back to the point of leaving the trail and continued the short hike back to Alberta. It was a surprising treat to get a premier peak at a brand new section of trail crossing the Michigan Tech. Property. This sweet addition to the NCT included a rather interesting bridge and quite a bit of full bench trail cut into the side of a couple of hills. At one point, a small spring leaks out into the path so a tread of split stone was laid to cross the wet earth. Kudos to the volunteers of the Peter Wolfe Chapter of the North Country Trail Association.
TRAIL DAY 11 - 24 miles
A very old M-41 was nothing more than a two track most of the way. It was a creative dance trying to avoid the waters covering the tracks. It was a very scenic and easy hike for the most part. Road work can go quite quickly so many miles were covered and I was able to snatch a grilled burger, fries and a cold glass of milk along the way. Ohhhhh… so good.
Entering Craig Lake State Park, the rains from Trail Day 5 continued to prevail as it was necessary to pass through foot deep water just to get to a bridge to cross a river. This very remote state park, however, was still really fantastic, leading to the first bald eagle sighting of the trip, many moose tracks and more interesting sites that will be saved for your own adventure. Spending a week here would be well worth it. They even have yurts with bunks and wood stoves available for rent. They looked pretty sweet.
TRAIL DAY 12 – 14 miles
The McCormick Wilderness Tract was one of my favorite parts of the adventure with varied terrain and more fantastic views. It is all about the views isn’t it ? It also led to the meeting of two other section hikers from Traverse City headed in the opposite direction…. or so I thought. Stopping for a short conversation while they ate lunch, they then pointed out the trail from which they came and I continued on.
No blazes are allowed and NCT hikers are warned upon entry of the difficulty in following this seldom used trail. It was even more fun with the recent drop of leaves covering the forest floor. The only clues to follow the trail were a slight depression in the leaves, hand sawed and ax cut logs that keep the trail open and occasional cairns (small stacks of rocks placed as a marker). It didn’t take long to figure out that I had gotten off on a deer trail a time or two and to back track a short ways to search for the proper trail. Make sure to plan a bit more time to find the way through this section.
TRAIL DAY 13 - 17 miles
As of this hike, a note on one of the maps saying that construction of a couple mile section of trail was to begin in 2006 was untrue. The local chapters web site warned that this would likely be the case but there may be some flagging tape left that was placed to mark the intended route three years ago.
Occasionally, I had noticed a fresh footprint while hiking toward this blank section on the map. Just before the trail ended it had turned north along a small stream when a voice was clearly heard on the other side. Waiting until the stream crossing and turning back south I hollered loudly ….”Hello? …. Someone else in here?”. Someone was in front of me that did not want to be found. A hunter maybe? It was a bit unsettling especially since the old flagging tape was not to be seen. Was this guy removing them as he went?
Avoiding any confrontation, I decided to climb a steep incline up and over the rocky hill rather than going out and around. The climb was a bit tough, but quite exciting. Finding an open lookout up top, I took compass bearings and decided to continue further northeast to the next ridge in hopes of running across the flagging tape. Just before hopping up on a very large bolder to clear the next point there it was, a very faded pink band around a small two inch tree. Bingo ! Carefully following the seldom seen pink tape, I added new orange tape that was brought along for the purpose of helping out some future traveler of this path.
An hour and a half later, the well point that was the first destination of the void appeared. The old logging trail that was to be followed on out was totally grown over and blended in with the rest of the forest floor. It was back to the compass on a southeast heading for the Silver Lake Basin to make the way to Red Road and my exit out. A GPS unit in the future maybe? …..nahhhhh ….this was too much fun!
After the sighting of a full double rainbow toward the evening, the two guys I had run across in the McCromick Tract pulled up next to me on Red Road. They had got my note left on the windshield of their car earlier, saying I had fun with the compass and map work and had made it through the void while avoiding a possible “situation” of a human nature. We had quite the laugh when they explained that they had not heard me and that the stranger on the trail ahead was them. I did find out that they had hiked the McCormick in and were headed back when I ran into them, but I’m still not clear as to how they ended up ahead of me. I feel bad for forgetting names so if your reading this, please get in touch.
TRAIL DAY 14 - 22 miles
The next section of trail was disrupted by logging operations a few years ago and has since been revived but is not shown on the current NCT maps. Maps and notes were found online that gave good directions to this nice section of trail that eventually falls in along the early beginnings of the Little Garlic River. It wound in and around and up and down a few short hills with some nicely built stone stairs in a couple places. The latest notes indicated that this trail may also come to an unfinished ending and it did. There was a new ATV trail at that point but it ran in the wrong direction so I opted to continue eastward, bushwhacking my way along the river. As promised, the slow progress ended, coming out on an old two track that hooked up with a network of gravel roads. The trail ducked back into the Escanaba River State Forest to run back along the growing Little Garlic River.
After another quick bit of road work, the trail led out to the very welcome sight of Lake Superior for the first time since Trail Day 3. The trail led in and out along some interesting shoreline and through the Little Presque Isle Recreation area. It was here that a large and most interesting “rainbow wall” appeared far out over the lake.
TRAIL DAY 15 - 14 miles
The morning was spent approaching Hogback Mountain, but the trip to the top will wait for another time as the North Country Trail only traversed along it’s side. The trail leading into Marquette was surprisingly a very nice hike. The local chapter has done a nice job to avoid all but a very small amount of trail shared with bikers, joggers and dog walkers. The “blue chip” runs mostly on it’s own into town and even at that point it was a nice walk along the shoreline.
A huge bacon / blue cheese burger, salad, steak fries and a Founders IPA at a downtown restaurant (fortunately with an outdoor patio) brought this journey to its end.
The stats of this trip included 260 miles of trail, fifteen days, well over eight inches of rain, lows of 34 degrees, 26 pounds of food and a bunch of good people along the way. It brought on unexpected challenges by way of heavy rains, flooding, cold and dehydration. As forewarned, the trail was difficult at times and non-existent at others. A great deal of preparation and planning turned these challenges into adventures and the basis for a great and exciting journey.
Also…. as always…. SAFETY FIRST !
This hike would not have been possible if it were not for the many hours provided by the volunteers of the North Country Trail Association. Contact your local chapter and volunteer just for one day. I promise a very rewarding experience.
Get up, get out and get active. Your adventure is just over the next hill.
“Windigo” Doug
























